Orient Eclipse

I have wanted to try out an Orient watch for a long time, but was waiting for the right watch offered in the right sale. Orient models I have seriously considered include the Star, Envoy, and Eclipse. Other models I find attractive are the Defender and Explorer. When the 2018 Father’s Day sale hit, I felt like something on a bracelet that combined the elements of sport, dress, and skeleton. So, the Eclipse won! The summary result is that I am very happy with this watch and it will remain in my collection as it is a great product of Japanese watchmaking.

Star, Envoy, DefenderThis review provides the details in brief, a review video, and pictures of the unpacking with some commentary.

“retro-futuristic style…the only open heart model in [the] Sport line.”

The details:

• Watch: Orient Eclipse
• Diameter: 40mm
• Height: 11.5mm
• Weight (w/ bracelet): TBD
• Movement: Orient Caliber 46A41
• Power: Automatic (no hand winding)
• Power Reserve: 40 hours
• Jewels: 21
• Lume: LumiBrite
• Frequency: 21,600Hz
• Crystal: Sapphire, Flat w/AR
• Case: Stainless Steel, Polished
• Water Resistance: 50m/150ft
• Strap: Stainless Steel Bracelet, Brushed links, 21mm
• Retail Cost: $350
• Sale Cost: $165 ($50 sale plus 45% off)

The review video: [https://youtu.be/qvFVcI7HAX8]

The unpacking and review:

The shipping was fairly standard: UPS, arrived about a week after ordering, popcorn.

Inside the packing you find the watch box, a maintenance guide, and the packing slip.

A nice simple watch case with the Orient logo in black and silver tones. The watch was well protected on the white cushion with the plastic protectors and tape on the face, back, and bracelet. The manual and warranty booklets were underneath the cushion.

The case is polished while the surfaces of the bracelet links are brushed, which gives the overall watch some good contrast. The Orient logo is stamped on the clasp. I did not really pay much attention to the crown when looking at pictures on the website, but I really like it. The crown has a slim profile and is unmarked but has a distinctive design that is easy to use.

An obvious point about this watch is what Orient dubs the “open heart” design, which displays the balance wheel and its surroundings to the viewer. I would consider this particular design more classy than a typical movement and dial made to showcase the beating balance wheel. The layout of the caliber and the open location gives a cross-section view of what I will call a hierarchy of attachment that shows depth. The hands, hour wheel, center wheel, escape wheel, train pivots and so on are subtly exposed.

What the Eclipse has in addition to other Orient open models is the small rectangular window on the right side that shows the stem and how the clutch and intermediate wheel interact. Again, a classy approach to open design. Keep in mind that this caliber is an automatic only, no hand winding, so you have to give it a few shakes to get it running and then set the watch. Once you have worn it a bit it should be fully wound and will last about 40 hours.

A major reason I was drawn to this model was the facial characteristics. The white/silver-tinted dial has contrasting lines running through the hour markers. The applied markers and hands are faceted on the ends which gives the face all sorts of looks depending on the light and angle. For example, notice the marker at 3 o’clock in the pictures above, the light makes it look like an actual 3 (though I doubt that was the intention or in the design brief). The color of the hands and markers moves up and down a spectrum from light gray to black.

Flip the watch over and you find an exhibition back with all the manufacture details etched into the case, rotor, and bridge. One thing to consider carefully when buying an Orient is the crystal material. Even within the same line, such as the Star, different models use different crystals. For example, the Star Classic has a domed mineral crystal while the Star Semi-Skeleton has a flat sapphire with AR coating. Many of the Orient watches have a mineral crystal, but the Eclipse is one of the models with sapphire and one of the reasons that tipped me in its favor.

At Orient’s price points, I am not sure why they are still choosing to use so much mineral crystal (of course it is about money). Still, it would not take that much away from profit or they could even add a few bucks to the overall cost. Doing so would increase their general watch quality and longevity. I do have a couple watches with mineral crystal and they do ok, but for less than $20 difference, why not up most of the models just a notch?

The Eclipse houses Orient’s 46A41 caliber, which is a 21 jewel movement that beats at 21,600 per hour (3Hz). The case has a depth rating of 50 meters.

At 40mm diameter and 11.5mm height (in partial thanks to the flat crystal), it is a mid-size watch and non-obtrusive. I have medium-size wrists, so I did have to remove two links (one from each side) and then the bracelet fit just right. The bracelet is a medium width at 21mm and lets you know its on, but it feels alright and is not overly heavy. I generally prefer leather, but I like this case on steel and it is quite comfortable.

The lume is surprisingly good, with markers around the edge and a good dose on the hour and minute hands.

All around I am very happy with the Orient Eclipse and I would highly recommend it, particularly at the sale price! I expect it will be a long-time member of my collection.

UPDATE (Sept 2019): I did eventually decide to sell this watch after being in my collection for over a year. I still liked the watch, just was not getting much wrist time given stiff competition in the box, so passed it along to someone who might wear it more!