Duel Time

Creating custom watches for clients is one of the most rewarding aspects of my watch-related activities. My brand 10/6 (Ten Six) is what I have dubbed a nanobrand, because I build one-off timepieces as opposed to larger production runs. I revel in working one-on-one with a customer to bring our collective vision to their wrist. Having a connection with my clients beyond an exchange of money for a watch is important and necessary for my work.

Duel Time, what I hope is an obvious play on words, is a project that I agreed to take on for several reasons: the idea, the challenge, and the customer.

In my Making Custom Dials and Watches video series, I describe some of the process and a look at the final product, but this page provides a more detailed description of the process I went through to create this watch.

*The design and/or process may not be everyone’s cup of tea (consider checking out my Tea Party model). To be frank, your opinion does not matter. My projects are custom built for clients based on what they like and my own process of discovery in watchmaking. If you don’t like something about the watch or process, I recommend you try making one yourself or create your own content and share it with the world so people can learn. If you are unwilling to do either then zip it.*

https://youtu.be/PmY498QqJFo

The details:

• Model: 10/6 Duel Time
• Diameter: 42mm
• Height: 11.1mm
• Lug-to-lug: 49mm
• Case: Stainless steel, brushed
• Movement: Swiss Ronda 515.24D, Quartz
• Battery: 371/SR920SW
• Lume Markers: Bergeon 5680V-07 Green Luminova
• Lume Hands: Japanese 8-hour lume
• Accuracy: +-10 seconds/month
• Crystal: Sapphire, Flat
• Water Resistance: 100m/300ft
• Strap Width: 20mm

The Idea

The story goes something like this…

Potential customer contacts me saying:

Hello,
I came across your Etsy store and liked what I saw. I’m wondering if you are willing to sell a custom watch?

Specifically, I’m looking for a rugged quartz GMT watch, with the 2nd time zone time on a “date-wheel”, like the Hamilton Khaki Navy GMT H77615333 (shown below next to “T2”). Is this possible? I’d love to talk more specifics with you.

Keep in mind I get plenty of inquiries about custom watches and dial mods, so teasing out serious inquiries is part of the challenge. I usually respond to initial emails in brief since the second communication back, if it comes, indicates true interest and commitment to the process. Now, I just point people to my Request Form.

Anyway, I send a short response back saying something to the effect of…

thanks for emailing me, that is an interesting idea, it may or may not be possible, what other GMT layouts do you like?

Again, my form helps with this initial communication, but what I really care about is the second email back. In this situation, the person understood the process, provided visual examples, and had a list of desired specs. The communication effort indicated someone who probably cared enough to dig into details, would provide feedback with each step, and is prepared for a back-and-forth process.

The main requirements were as follows:

– stainless steel case
– some sort of crown protection (guard or screw down)
– 39-42mm diameter
– quartz (military, rugged, precise)
– dark grey dial
– date
– large numerals for 1-12, with 13-24 smaller below
– second time zone
– lumed hour and minute hands
– lumed markers

Compare the initial requested specs with the final Duel Time specs and you will find they are in sync.

For the movement, I chose the Swiss Ronda 515.24D. The 515.24H is more common, using a hand for the second timezone in traditional GMT style. Alternatively, the readily available 24D model uses a wheel, which provides a more unique look.

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The Process

To describe the steps of making this watch, I will use pictures with some context.

Dial Design

A dial design goes through many revisions.

Eventually, we chose a design. The customer wanted this specific shade of green for the logo.

I use the final design to create vector images that can be laser-etched onto steel plates to be used for pad printing. I also print these on paper to cutout and test on the dial blanks so I can get an idea for sizes, legibility, locations, etc.

(Left: for paper printing, Right: for laser etching)

Throughout the design phase I am also drafting and 3d-printing sample dial blanks to verify size, form, and fit to test with the movement and case. Having the movement specification documents is very helpful for ensuring correct dimensions for something like a custom window.

Having the designs means I can make dials and plates.

For all the details on the process, watch my Making Custom Dials series.

The Case

Having the case around is important for all things testing. The customer wanted a completely brushed case. The best case I could find per the spec had brushed sides and lugs, but the bezel, crown and caseback were polished. So I brushed those parts myself. All it takes is time, care, and a Scotch-Brite pad. I kept the bezel brushing horizontal, while the look for the crown and back was general brushing with some variability.

Dial Making

With prep work done, the actual dial making can begin. Dial making often means juggling lots of different processes.

The dial needed to be 35.8mm diameter, dial feet to fit the 515.24D, have a date window at 3, and a timezone window between 6 and 9. You would never find that combination for purchase anywhere, because of the custom arc window. The other specs are not too abnormal, so I was able to purchase complete dials that just needed the custom window cut.

I don’t have the tooling to do metal cutting so I knew I would have to outsource this step. Most lasers can’t cut through brass blanks because of the wavelength, so I couldn’t use my usual goto for steel plate etching. Turns out the best and quickest local option for me was waterjet cutting. Yes, that is correct, the custom windows on this build are cut with a water jet. The CAD drawing for my 3d blanks was also necessary for this step.

I use scrap 3d blanks to test base colors. The customer wanted a dark grey and I ended up using a dark grey automotive primer of all things.

I toyed with two different base colors, knowing that the final clear coating would lighten the overall look. Dials + custom window + base paint + pad printing = the following.

The color the customer wanted for my 10/6 logo proved an interesting challenge. I tested the process of painting applied markers that I have laser cut in Hong Kong, which I prefer in silver. In the end, I decided to pad print the logo.

Note the timezone window in the test dial above was cut a hair too wide. So I used it as a test dial through all the steps.

Applying Lume

I used this project to illustrate applying lume for my video series, but here are some more pictures.

https://youtu.be/kLATx3JZzwE

An alternative to lume compound is lume tape. I tested two different types from Identi-Tape: Jessup 7530 and 7550. Both tapes were good and cutting is simple, but the customer preferred traditional lume.

The little white dots between the minute markers I had etched into the plate for pad printing serve two purposes. One, they give me a visual center for the lume markers. Two, lume is more effective with some white behind it than darker tones.

Dial Texture and Coating

You might see in some pictures above that several imperfections and texture variations exist in the dials. A certain amount is expected with my process and each dial has a unique handmade feel. But, I still like evening things out to a certain extent, sealing the paint, and providing some additional UV protection for the colors.

The customer wanted a matte finish, so I applied about ten thin layers of UV resistant matte clear coat paint to the finished dial. You can see this process evens out the surface and slightly lightens the color.

You must be careful with this step because you can apply too many layers and layers can be too thick. I typically apply very thin layers 2-3 minutes apart until I achieve the desired surface texture.

Here are three dials in different stages.

A Custom Spacer Ring

With the dial done, we move to a casing issue. The movement is a little thinner (about 1mm) than the intended mechanical movements for the case, so I knew I would have to come up with a solution to raise the movement and align it with the stem.

https://youtu.be/0UVG3raLASo

The solution was a bit of a surprise to me. I tried something on a whim and was thrilled with the result. I explain the whole process in the video (sorry for the weird sounds), but in short I 3d-printed a white ring, which adds depth to the dial, connects the markers, and adds more white.

Once the ring is placed, I can see how the dial and movement fit on top, place the movement holder, and ensure the tension ring and caseback correctly seal.

Assembly

The customer wanted a specific hand shape (reminiscent of those on the Longines shown at the beginning), so I found similar hands. At the conclusion of the project, the client and I both agreed that longer hands would be better, but I also wanted to get this on the wrist.

I attached the hands originally chosen, but I am on the look for similar hands with more length that I will swap when the watch needs a service, which for this watch will likely just be a battery change.

Time to put it together! (I should also note that I had to measure and cut the stem to fit this setup.)

The final product is unique and wonderful, but more importantly what the customer wanted.

The Customer

I want to acknowledge how much I enjoyed this project and major reason why was the customer. They were decisive, patient, trusting, communicative, and a general joy to work with over the course of nine months. The process of building a custom watch is long but rewarding if the maker and client are on the same page.

I like my nano-brand approach and interacting one-on-one with clients in a direct and meaningful way. This means clients and I are picky about committing to the process, a good thing in my opinion.

Final Thought

What a challenging and fun build! I learned a ton and built a great relationship with a client. The watch is exactly what the customer wanted and I am proud to have built Duel Time.