Atelier Wen Porcelain Odyssey Hao Green
Atelier Wen is a young microbrand that blends Chinese watchmaking with French design. Getting its start in 2017, Atelier Wen came to Kickstarter in 2018 with the Porcelain Odyssey series, which was a successful campaign thanks to creating richly colored porcelain dials, embossing a stark caseback, and telling a story worth believing. The question is…is Atelier Wen a step forward in quality for Chinese watchmaking? To answer the question, let’s take a look at the Atelier Wen Hao Green Edition.
https://youtu.be/LAoZI-avmQ4
The details:
- Model: Atelier Wen Porcelain Odyssey Hao Green Edition
- Diameter: 39mm
- Height: 11.9mm
- Lug-to-lug: 47mm
- Weight: ~82g
- Case: Japanese stainless steel (316L)
- Movement: Peacock SL-3006 Automatic
- Power Reserve: ~40 hours
- Accuracy: -10 ~ +10 sec/day
- Crystal: Sapphire, Domed, A/R coated
- Water Resistance: 50m/150ft
- Bracelet/Strap Width: 20mm
- Retail Price: $790
The review:
Let me just say that a young microbrand achieving such quality with the first three points regarding the dial and caseback is surprising and refreshing.
Pros:
- Blemish-free white porcelain dial. The richness is real.
- Emerald green printing is exceptional and crisp.
- The deeply embossed caseback is one of the most amazing solid casebacks I have seen on a watch.
- The simplicity of just having the name and number etched…a lesson for other companies!
- Quality materials regarding the case steel and crystal.
- Rhodium-plated feathered hands.
- Strap colors.
- Packaging is simple and well-designed. Great watch pouch.
- Limited edition of 25.
- Service and communication thusfar has been ideal.
Cons:
- Ghost date at time setting position 1. The gearing is gone, so the crown freely spins. Not the worst thing, but something worth noting.
- Buckle edges could be gently rounded and tongue smaller to be easier on the strap.
- Beat rate (28,800) and time keeping has been within specs, but has a low amplitude of 225 +/-5. Ideally, it should be between 275-315. Could be a mainspring greasing/cleanliness issue. A low amplitude can result in timekeeping issues. (Analogous to a heartrate, weird side-effects can happen if your heart is beating too fast or, in this case, too slow.)
- A feathered small seconds hand would have looked better, imo.
The Peacock SL-3006 movement is based on the SL-3000, a clone of the ETA 2824-2. Atelier Wen is unapologetically proud of their Chinese roots and manufacturing. They are seeking out, modifying, and more robustly quality checking what they consider to be good Chinese Made movements. Atelier Wen wants to improve Chinese movement quality and perception. The modification in this model is that the date complication is absent, while seconds is moved from center to 6.
The Unboxing
Going with a young microbrand is always a risk in terms of quality, service, market value, etc. Thus far, Atelier Wen has proven to be accurate in terms of their materials and marketing. The quality is far above what one might expect from Chinese watchmaking. Even though watch companies source parts from all over the world and China plays an important part, particularly in case manufacture, typical watch enthusiasts have the entrenched mindset that only quality watchmaking can be achieved in Switzerland, Germany, and such (I’ll throw in Japan for the Seiko/Grand Seiko admirers).
Speaking of quality control…I had initially requested No.210, but I was informed the movement failed the final QC check before being packed up and sent my way, which meant I had to pick a different number (or wait a while). I went with No.216 and Atelier Wen threw in an extra blue salmon strap for the inconvenience. I tell this part of the story for two reasons…1) It shows they are doing QC checks right up to the point the watches are being packed up for the customers and 2) When there was a problem, they communicated it quickly and made amends by offering something extra. Good signs that put me more at ease regarding the brand and future interactions.
The Watch
The Porcelain Odyssey Hao Green Edition definitely has a place in my watch collection. “Hao” means blemish-free, and the white porcelain certainly is. Atelier Wen also has a Hao White edition that looks the same as this watch except the printing is a beautiful blue. For a different look, the Ji Blue edition offers a completely blue dial with rhodium markers.
The Caseback
The Straps
The straps are fairly comfortable, the nubuck leather moreso than the blue salmon. Both are different from other straps I have come across. The green nubuck is a beautiful color and the suede-like texture is fitting with the overall design.
I do think the buckle edges could be rounded slightly and the tongue a tad smaller. The buckle might end up being too abrasive for the leather, but time will tell.
On the Wrist
The Porcelain Odyssey provides a mix of vintage style and modern dress that will be fitting for numerous occations and casual wear. The green is beautiful, but can present a challenge when thinking about what to wear it with! Personally, I think it matches well with a grey suit and more casually reds and oranges.
Final Thought
Something green was desired. Something green appeared. Something green was acquired. Something green is here. The Hao Green Edition is a great watch. Given the porcelain dial, emerald green printing, and crazy cool caseback I believe Atelier Wen shows that a higher quality Chinese watch company and philosophy is possible. The significant struggles will be with movement quality. I will be keeping a close eye on mine, particulalry the timekeeping due to the amplitude. However, the company and watch provide a bright spot in what might be the best Chinese Made watch on the market.
