ETIEN T01
Having reviewed some other Singapore-based watch microbrands such as Vario and Feynman Timekeepers, I was asked to take a look at a new brand’s first offering, the ETIEN T01. Available for purchase on their website, I received the Emerald Green model for review, which is also offered in Ruby Red.
Here I include some photos and a dab of context. All the finer details, thoughts, and photos are in the review video.
Specs:
- Model: T01
- Diameter: 40mm
- Height: 10mm
- Lug Width: 20mm
- Lug-to-lug: 46.65mm
- Weight: ~72.5g
- Case: 316L stainless steel
- Crowns: Regular
- Movement: ETA 2824-2 Standard
- Average (2 positions): ±12 sec/day
- Max variation: ± 30 sec/day
- Power Reserve: ~38 hours
- Crystal: Sapphire, Flat
- Water Resistance: 3atm/30m/100ft
- Lume: N/A
- Retail Price: $1,388
Pros:
- Dial work
- Hour/minute simplicity on a dress watch
- ETA movement
- Dimensions
- Lance hands
- Two year warranty
Cons:
- Website description of dial manufacturing process
- Enamel or Cold Enamel/Epoxy? See prior point
- Ghost position due to date on ETA2824, could have gone with a 2801 manual wind or 2824 No Date automatic
- Chapter ring printing/design
- Debris inside case/on dial
- Competition at price point
The Video
https://youtu.be/zVymFltaJAk
Timeline:
- 0:00 Intro
- 2:16 YouTube “Watch Review” Rant
- 3:33 Monty Python Update
- 4:46 Packaging
- 5:30 Enamel Dial Terminology & Manufacturing
- 11:58 ETIEN T01 Details
- 17:50 Pros
- 19:24 Cons
- 24:00 A Final Pro & Con
- 25:11 Final Thoughts
One interesting characteristic of this watch is that there is zero branding anywhere on the watch…nothing on the dial, crown, case back, and strap. The brand name is laser-etched on the wood box used for shipping, but nothing else. I find this an interesting approach that some people may see as a pro or con.
My favorite aspect of the watch is the hands, which fit the design intention, but also stand out against the dial and effectively reflect light.
Although (mostly) green dial watches with black leather straps in the dress category are not really my style, all watches have an audience. Some people will find the ETIEN T01 to their taste, be it the enamel, color, uniqueness, the fact it is a microbrand, and so on.
I simply look at a watch and state what I find to be pros and cons. Some people will like it, some people won’t. Hopefully, the pictures and video provide my fellow enthusiasts some added insight into not only the visual characteristics of this unique watch, but also considerations regarding watchmaking and design techniques.
The dial was darker than I expected, when compared to the website photos. If I had to choose a color, I would probably go for the Ruby Red. Since the dial is the star of the show, the quality control needs to be spot on and ensure that zero debris is inside the case. Seeing some imperfections on hands is somewhat typical, but given the price point and focus on the dial, having spots on the crystal or dial is a deal breaker. Whether the maker or buyer, make sure it is clean.
Final Thoughts
The ETIEN T01 is a modern take on an old tradition. Flinqué enamel dials are a sophisticated endeavor and it is nice to see something different and demanding from a microbrand (enough diver and pilot watches already). Although the guilloché pattern is accomplished with CNC machining as opposed to a traditional lathe, the layers of translucent enamel work well. It may not be for me, but it is for someone.
